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ARBORICULTURE II BHT208

Course CodeBHT208
Fee CodeS2
Duration (approx)100 hours
QualificationStatement of Attainment
HOME STUDY - ONLINE COURSE
 
Increase your understanding and skills in tree care.
 
Develop your ability to manage trees beyond the basics (building on Arboriculture I), in order to minimize potential long term tree problems. Learn about better tree selection, strengthening and improving health of existing trees. Learn techniques used to remove trees and stumps that need removal.  Learn about:
  • Tree planting
  • Advanced tree problems
  • Tolerant tree species
  • Establishing tree plantations
  • Tree fellling
  • Stump removal
  • Stregthening weak trees & more
COURSE CONTENT

There are 7 lessons as follows:

Lesson 1- . Planting Techniques

Soil, Water, Climate, Maintenance, Matching a tree to the site, Local regulations, Plant at the right time, Planting techniques, Plant size and age, Container type, Buying a tree, How to plant a tree, Watering method, Transplanting a large tree, Preparing for transplanting, Aftercare, small feature trees, Transplanting deciduous trees, Pruning at planting, Pocket planting, Slope serratioin, Wattling, Planting on Arid sites, Direct seeding, Spray seeding, trees with berries,

Lesson 2. Controlling Plant Problems

Temperature, Frost, Winds, Acclimatisation, Tree guards, Other Tree Problems (Fire damage, Fire Resistant trees, pollution and toxic reactions, Soil contamination, Treating foliage burn, Soil rehabilitation, Trees to extract soil contaminants, Soil chemical composition, Air pollution and tree growth, pollutant tolerant trees, Pollution intolerant trees, Trees to control Urban air pollution, Dry soils, Symptoms of drought stressed trees, Dry soil tolerant trees, Trees for hot sites, Drainage problems and trees, Wet tolerant trees, Treee health problems, Resistant plant species, Choosing and using pesticides safely, Biological controls of pest and disease, Lifescycles, Tree termites, Tree injections, Tree nutrition and nutrition management, Fertilisers

Lesson 3. Strengthening Weak Trees

Trimming, Trimming technique, Adverse responses to trimming, thinning, Bracing, temporary props, Modern bracing systems, Bolting, Rodding technique, Guy wires, How strong is dead wood, Cabling

Lesson 4. Controlling Damage Caused by Plants

Tree damage, Tree root problems, trees that can cause problems with drains, Orecautions with drains, Selecting and using trees near drains, Limiting root problems, Root pruning, Trees and the water table (Aquafiers), Trees and power lines, Poisonous trees,

Lesson 5. Tree Felling and Stump Removal

Tree evaluation systems, Calculating tree value, Tree removal, Why remove a tree, Tree felling methods, Axe, Saws, Winches, Chain saw, Controlling the fall, Different methods or removing stumps, Protecting trees, National Tree registers, Measuring tree height, Keeping a work site safe, risk assessment, Duty of care, Costing jobs,

Lesson 6. Tolerant Plant Species

What to plant where, Tree data required, Influence of trees on buildings, Species suitability, Planning considerations, Harsh environments, frost protection, Frost resistant trees, Sun protection, Mulching, Fencing, wind protection, Wind tolerant trees, Soil degradation, Saline tolerant trees, Lime tolerance, Acid tolerance, Hardy trees for inner city, Review of several major genera (Aer, Fraxinus, Pinus, Quercus,

Lesson 7. Establishing a Tree Plantation

Windbreaks, Windbreak design, Choosing windbreak species, Designing tree plantations, Producing drawings to scale.

DURATION: 100 hours 

COURSE AIMS:
  • Explain how to plant a specified advanced-sized tree on a specific site.
  • Explain tree injection, including the technique and applications.
  • Identify situations where trees require strengthening operations to be carried out.
  • Compare different ways to control roots which invade underground pipes.
  • Calculate the cost of removing a specified tree.
  • Determine appropriate tree species suited to a specific visited site.
  • Devise a method for removing a tree, including tree felling and stump removal.
  • Analyse different specimens of mature trees, from each different genera, to detect any patterns in problems occurring in those trees.
  • Develop criteria for the establishment of a tree plantation on a specific site which addresses; site restrictions, cost and function.

COURSE NOTES SAMPLE

 Transplanting large trees

Large trees should only be transplanted by a properly equipped professional. Advanced tree specialists use specially-designed equipment such as mechanised tree spades, cranes, winches, self-loading tree-moving trailers and large trucks to move valuable trees from one site to another. The following notes are provided as a background to these operations.  

Some trees transplant more readily than others. Generally deciduous trees in their dormant state are the most adaptable, and conifers and many evergreens are the least adaptable.

Transplanting should not be carried out in extreme weather conditions; avoid planting during windy, very cold or dry times of the year. The tree needs to be prepared for transplanting at least one growing season before removal. Trees that are known to be less adaptable should be prepared at least two growing seasons ahead; as a rule, the longer the preparation period, the better chance the tree has of adapting to its new environment.

Preparing the Tree for Transplanting

At least one growing season before removal, a trench is dug around the tree. Roots growing beyond the trench are cut off and, over the growing season, new fibrous roots will form - these are essential for supporting the tree once it is lifted out of the soil.

The distance the trench is dug beyond the tree depends on the species, the size and age of the tree and the transplanting equipment. For example, a mechanised tree spade can be used to lift a tree with a trunk calliper of 35mm, and a root ball of 500mm diameter and 300mm depth (therefore the trench would have a 500 mm diameter). A larger tree spade could be used to remove a tree with a trunk calliper of 200 mm, and a root ball of 2250mm diameter and 1250 depth. If less sophisticated equipment is used, the trench diameters may need to be smaller to minimise the weight of the root ball.

The trench is often formed in segments to minimise root damage and subsequent shock to the tree. The trench circumference is divided into four to eight segments. Alternate segments are cut out in one operation, and roots form in the trench; the remaining segments are cut out in the following growing season.

The trench may be left unfilled so that roots only form in the undisturbed area close to the tree. This means the new fibrous roots are less likely to be damaged during lifting. Alternatively the trench can be filled with loamy soil, humus or other porous media, with the aim of encouraging new roots to grow in the media (so the tree will have a larger proportion of fibrous roots when it is transplanted).  

At the time of lifting, the root ball is usually held together with a covering of hessian, canvas or other sturdy material and tied with ropes or chains. The root zone should be well watered at least two days before lifting. Some branches may need to be cut off to reduce the crown size and to minimise interference with the lifting operation. Branches can be tied together and/or covered in hessian or other material to reduce damage.

Aftercare

  1. The soil around the newly-planted tree must not dry out during the first growing season; mulching is highly recommended.
  2. Limbs that are damaged during transplanting must be pruned, and bark wounds may also need treatment.
  3. Larger trees are likely to need stabilising with guy wires attached to ground anchors or stakes driven into the ground.
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Meet some of our academics

Bob James Bob has over 50 years of experience in horticulture across both production sectors (Crops and nursery) and amenity sectors of the industry. He holds a Diploma in Agriculture and Degree in Horticulture from the University of Queensland; as well as a Masters Degree in Environmental Science. He has worked a Grounds Manager at a major university; and a manager in a municipal parks department. Over recent years he has been helping younger horticulturists as a writer, teacher and consultant; and in that capacity, brings a diverse and unique set of experiences to benefit our students.
Rosemary Davies Rosemary trained in Horticulture at Melbourne Universities Burnley campus; studying all aspects of horticulture -vegetable and fruit production, landscaping, amenity, turf, aboriculture and the horticultural sciences. Initially she worked with the Department of Agriculture in Victoria providing advice to the public. Over the years she has taught horticulture students, worked on radio with ABC radio (clocking up over 24 years as a presenter of garden talkback programs, initially the only woman presenter on gardening in Victoria) and she simultaneously developed a career as a writer. She then studied Education and Training, teaching TAFE apprentices and developing curriculum for TAFE, before taking up an offer as a full time columnist with the Herald and Weekly Times and its magazine department after a number of years as columnist with the Age. She has worked for a number of companies in writing and publications, PR community education and management and has led several tours to Europe. In 1999 Rosemary was BPW Bendigo Business Woman of the Year and is one of the founders and the Patron, of the Friends of the Bendigo Botanic gardens. She has completed her 6th book this year and is working on concepts for several others. Rosemary has a B Ed, BSc Hort, Dip Advertising & Marketing
John Mason Parks Manager, Nurseryman, Landscape Designer, Garden Writer and Consultant. Over 40 years experience; working in Victoria, Queensland and the UK. He is one of the most widely published garden writers in the world; author of more than 70 books and editor for 4 different gardening magazines. John has been recognised by his peers being made a fellow of the Institute of Horticulture in the UK, as well as by the Australian Institute of Horticulture.
Gavin Cole Gavin started his career studying building and construction in the early 80's. Those experiences have provided a very solid foundation for his later work in landscaping. In 1988 he completed a B.Sc. and a few years later a Certificate in Garden Design. In the mid 90's he worked as a manager and garden designer with the well respected UK company -The Chelsea Gardener. A few years later he formed his own garden design business, at first in the UK, and later operating in Queensland Australia. He has since moved to, and works from Adelaide. Apart from his work in landscaping, Gavin has been a prolific garden writer and a tutor with ACS Distance Education since 2001. He is currently part of the team of garden experts that produce Home Grown magazine.


Check out our eBooks

Growing ConifersThe great thing about conifers is they look good all year round. Most of them are grown for foliage, and in general, foliage remains the same pretty well all year. Unlike other trees and shrubs, you do not have a month of attractive flowers, followed by an obscure plant the remainder of the year. A brilliant blue of gold foliage conifer will be blue or gold month in, month out.
Trees and ShrubsUseful for students, tradespeople already working in the field, or the home gardener who needs a quick reference when choosing plants for a garden.
Getting Work in HorticultureFind out what it is like to work in horticulture; how diverse the industry is, how to get a start, and how to build a sustainable, long term and diverse career that keeps your options broad, so you can move from sector to sector as demand and fashion changes across your working life.
Plant Pests & DiseasesAre you one of those people that kill every plant you touch? Perhaps it's not you. Perhaps it's a pest or disease. A little bit of reading might just turn your garden into an oasis. Learn how to identify pests and diseases and bring the spring back into your plant...visit the bookshop to find out more...